Ashikaga

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Ashikaga (足利, [1]) is a town in Tochigi prefecture, Japan.

Understand

Ashikaga makes an ideal day trip from Tokyo. It's a small town with a lot of history packed into an attractive and easily walkable radius, from the mound tombs (kofun) and mountain-top shrines of pre-Buddhist Japan to dozens of temples built by members of the long-powerful Ashikaga clan, notable patrons of classical Japanese theatre (Noh), art (flower arranging and tea ceremony), and architecture (the Golden and Silver Pavilions in Kyoto). The Ashikaga clan was an offshoot of the Minamoto clan who conquered Honshu and dominated the Kamakura Shogunate (1185-1333). Ashikaga Takauji overthrew the Kamakura shoguns and installed himself in the Muromachi district of Kyoto. The Ashikaga shoguns did not just help beautify Kamakura and Kyoto, they also built temples, gardens, and retirement villas in their hometown, which has been called a Little Kyoto and calls Kamakura one of its sister cities. The clan also sponsored the Ashikaga Gakko, the most famous Confucian academy of eastern Japan, and Ashikaga has a friendship city relationship with Jining, China, which includes Qufu, the hometown of Confucius.

As the Ashikaga shoguns got weaker, the country fractured into civil war, until it was reunited and pacified under the Tokugawa Shogunate, with its headquarters in Edo (modern Tokyo). Ashikaga and other towns on the edge of the Kanto plain prospered as Edo grew into a bustling metropolis, two of Ashikaga's specialties being soba and silk. Classic, Edo-period merchant stronghouses are still frequent sights along Ashikaga streets. Long prominent in the silk industry, Ashikaga, Kiryu, and nearby towns became important centers of Japan's industrial revolution, with textile manufacturing leading the way. Although the factories have moved overseas, textile handicrafters are still active, and fine woven goods can be found in many local souvenir shops.

Get in

Travelers coming from either Tokyo or Narita should note that buses may be cheaper, faster and more convenient than taking trains.

By train

The nearest Shinkansen (bullet train) stations are Oyama on the Tōhoku Shinkansen and Takasaki on the Jōetsu Shinkansen, both of which are connected to Ashikaga by the JR Ryōmō Line (両毛線), which has about 30 trains daily running in each direction between about 5 am and 11 pm. JR Ashikaga station is on the north bank of the Watarase River, in the older, more walkable section of town.

The private Tōbu Asakusa-Isesaki Line (東武伊勢崎線) [2] runs about 60 trains in each direction through Ashikaga-shi station every day between about 5 am and midnight. Express trains leaving Asakusa in Tokyo reach Ashikaga-shi in about 75 minutes. The local (or "semi-express") takes twice as long. Kita-Senju is more convenient than Asakusa as a transfer point in the Tokyo area. Tobu Ashikaga-shi station is on the south bank of the Watarase River, in the rapidly expanding south side of town, with strip malls, big-box retailers, and ample parking.

By bus

The JR Bus Kanto Watarase line [3] runs directly from the Yaesu South exit of Tokyo Station to the JR Ashikaga station and back six times a day for only ¥1600 each way. This particular JR Bus is not free for JR Rail Pass [4] users. Reservations are not usually necessary, and tickets can be purchased from the bus driver.

The Keisei Bus Salvia [5] line runs directly between Narita airport and Ashikaga each way daily for ¥4300 one way. The trip takes about 3 hours, depending on Tokyo traffic. Four buses leave Tobu Ashikaga-shi station between 4:50 am and 12:30 pm, and four buses leave Narita between 3:15 and 7:50 pm.

By car

Take the Sano-Fujioka exit from the Tohoku Expressway and follow National Route 50 west toward Ashikaga. The four-lane divided highway is usually busy, and highway buses schedule a half-hour between the Sano Premium Outlets [6] and the Ashikaga train stations. National Route 50 runs along the south edge of Ashikaga.

Get around

The Ashikaga City Bus [7] runs 4 times a day each way through Ashikaga on a long route that runs far up the mountain valleys that flank the city. It costs ¥200 each way.

The old downtown of Ashikaga north of the Watarase River is very walkable, while the riverbank itself is very bikeable (and walkable). A bicycle trail runs along the levees for the full length of Ashikaga city, sometimes along the north levee, sometimes along the south. The levees were raised and flood control measures were improved after severe flooding in the wake of Typhoon Catherine in 1947.

See

Ashikaga Gakko, Shohei-cho 2338 (drivers can park directly across Route 293 behind a large souvenir shop; walkers along main street--Tori, 1-chome--can turn onto the flagstone entranceway at the Confucius statue), tel. 0284-41-2655, fax 0284-41-2082. Open daily 9:30 am to 5:00 pm. Closed 3rd M Oct-Mar, 3rd Tu Apr-Sep. Known as Japan's oldest university, Ashikaga School was established during the 1400s by deputy shogun Uesugi Norizane (although some credit Lord Ashikaga Yoshikane during the Kamakura period, and still others claim it dates from either the Nara or the Heian period). In any case, by the 1500s, St. Francis Xavier and other foreign missionaries recognized Ashikaga School as the most famous university in eastern Japan. The school was abolished after the Meiji Restoration and then converted into an elementary school when the site passed into city control in 1902. After a decade of preparatory work, the original grounds of Ashikaga School were beautifully restored in 1990 as a National Historic Site, a designation it received in 1921. The thatched-roof buildings and manicured grounds are well worth seeing. ¥400 per adult.
Bannaji Temple, Ietomi-cho 2220 (walkers along main street--Tori, 1-chome--can turn north onto the next flagstone street west of the Confucius statue), tel. 0284-41-2627, [8]. Open daily 10:00 am to 5:30 pm. Founded by Ashikaga Yoshikane during the early Kamakura period (1192-1333), Bannaji Temple maintains the style of a samurai residence of that era. It was designated a National Historic Site in 1922. In addition to the main temple, the spacious grounds include a bell tower, library, and other buildings, as well as a fine assortment of trees, including cherry trees and a huge, old gingko tree. Admission is free.
Flower Park, Hazama-cho 607 (walkers can take the JR train one stop east to Tomita, then walk back west along Old Route 50 around a hill and S-curve to a small cluster of shops, then walk eastward down a small road in front of an apartment building, through a small underpass beneath the railway tracks, and into the Park's ample parking lot), tel. 0284-91-4939, [9]. Open daily except at New Year's 9:00 am to 6:00 pm. A 20-acre park most famous for its four huge wisteria arbors, in bloom from mid Apr to mid May, the park contains such a wide variety of flowers and trees that it is worth seeing in any season: plum blossoms in Feb-Mar, hydrangeas in Jun-Jul, lotus flowers in May-Oct, purple sage in Oct-Nov, and roses in May-Jun and Sep-Nov. Lights adorn the trees in midwinter. At the park entrance is a large souvenir shop and a beer restaurant open 10:00 am to 7:00 pm. Admission ¥700 per adult Apr 16 to May 15, ¥500 rest of year.
Soun Museum and Ashikaga Park, Midori-cho 2-3768 (off the road leading to Midori-bashi at the western end of old Ashikaga), tel. 0284-21-3808. Open Tu-Su (closed M) 9:00 am to 4:00 pm. The western side of old Ashikaga is bounded by the Ashikaga Park hillsides, containing large mound tombs from the pre-Buddhist Kofun Period (roughly AD 300-700). During April, the hills are covered with cherry blossoms and flower-viewing picknickers. On the south edge of the park is the small Soun Museum [10], housing landscape and nature paintings by the Ashikaga clan's official artist, Tazaki Soun (1815-1898) [11], who exhibited his depiction of Mt. Fuji at the World's Columbian Exposition in Chicago in 1893. Museum admission is ¥210. Park admission is free.

Do

Ashikaga Machinaka Yugakkan, Tori 1-chome, 2673-1 (right on Main Street, on the right corner of the flagstone-paved street leading into Ashikaga Gakko), tel. 0284-41-8201. Open daily 9:00 am to 5:00; closed 3rd M every month and at year end. This "play-learn" emporium not only exhibits locally made textiles and actual working looms and braiding and threading machines, it also offers weaving lessons on small handlooms. ¥400 per lesson (30-45 minutes).
Coco Farm and Winery, Tajima-cho 611 (deep in a valley north of Ashikaga; by car take Route 293 north and follow the Coco Farm signs; by taxi from JR Ashikaga, budget ¥2000 each way), tel. 0284-42-1194, fax 0284-42-2166, email office-m@cocowine.com, [12]. Gift shop open daily 9:30 am to 5:30 pm; cafe open daily 11:00 am to 4:00 pm; winery tours at 11:00, 1:00, 3:00; closed 31 Dec. through 2 Jan. Founded in 1950 as a boarding school for underachieving kids, it gradually evolved into a self-supporting vineyard, produced its first wine in 1980, established ties with Sonoma vineyards, then hired a California vintner, and provided the sparkling wine for the G7 summit in Okinawa in 2000. Per-glass prices range from ¥300 to ¥1000, with a variety of hors d'oeuvres at a similar range of prices. A sample of three wines and matching hors d'oeuvres can be ordered for ¥2000. Winery tours cost ¥500 per person; five Coco Farms wines can be sampled for ¥500.

Buy

The principal local specialties of Ashikaga are: textiles, soba noodles, and now Coco Farm wines and a locally made citrus wine.

The most convenient place to shop for textiles is along the flagstone-paved (ishi-datami) streets that lead into Bannaji and Ashikaga Gakko. Natural indigo dyes are a local specialty, but look for some very nice natural brown dyes from walnut and chestnut as well. The less expensive varieties of each fabric are most likely made in China (and sometimes India).

A range of Coco Farm wines can be found in most supermarkets, but you might need to look in larger specialty liquor stores for the best (and more expensive) varieties, or at Coco Farms itself. Their labels range from the basic Coco Farm (¥1100-1200) and Oak Barrel (¥1200-1500) to the less widely available Coco Ima (¥1500-1800), Aubade (¥5000), and Novo sparkling wine (¥9000) lines.

The most convenient shopping for soba noodles and other edible souvenirs can be found in many shops along main street (Tori 1-chome to 7-chome), running parallel and north of the JR railway tracks, and Grand Avenue (Gurando Tori), which runs north directly out of the JR Ashikaga station. The gift shop at the Flower Park also offers a large variety of comestible souvenirs.

Eat

Maruyama Teuchi Ramen, Tanaka-cho 957-7 (one block west of Tobu Ashikaga-shi station on Tanaka-dori), tel. 0284-71-5254. Open W-M (closed Tu and 3rd W each month) 11:30 to 2:30 pm, 5:00 to 8:30 pm. This local favorite makes its own high-quality ramen, gyoza, and char siu. A bowl of its highly recommended garlic ramen runs about ¥800.
Santa Tori Maruyaki (さん太とり丸焼), Tanaka-cho 920-9 (across the street from the Tobu Ashikaga-shi station complex), tel. 0284-72-1825. Open Tu-Su (closed M) 5:30 to 11:00 pm. This new izakaya-style restaurant specializes in rotisserie chicken and relatively healthy side dishes. The sage and thyme on the rotisserie chicken was a delightful surprise, and so were the fulsome salads. Japanese-style seating except at the counter. Drinks by the glass include local wine (Coco Farms) and a fine Oyama sake (鳳凰美田 Hououbiden) for about ¥500. Full chicken ¥1000, half ¥650; quarter ¥400. Other dishes range between ¥500 and ¥1300.
Southwest Paradise [13], (on the flagstone-paved sidestreet connecting the streets entering Ashikaga Gakko and Bannaji), tel. 0284-43-3484. Open Tu-Su (closed M) 12:00 to 2:00 pm & 5:30 pm to 1:00 am weekdays; 12:00 pm to 2:00 am Saturdays; 12:00 to 11:00 pm Sundays. A little bit of New Mexico in old Ashikaga. Various pasta or taco dinners ¥1280; drinks about ¥500; snacks about ¥400.
Suzu Okonomiyaki, Ise-cho 3-chome, 9-9 (near the far-end, lefthand corner of the third block of Grand Avenue, which runs north from JR Ashikaga station), tel. 0284-42-8020. Open Th-Tu (closed W) 12:00 to 9:30 pm weekends, 1:00 to 9:30 pm weekdays. Run by a friendly, well-traveled couple whose souvenirs decorate the small but spotless restaurant. You choose your ingredients and cook okonomiyaki, monja, yakisoba, or other items at teppan tables. Typical menu items range between ¥400 and ¥800.
Tonkatsu Sakae (とんかつ栄), Ise-cho 2-chome (head one block up Grand Avenue from JR Ashikaga, cross main street, turn right, and stop a few doors down), tel. 0284-42-0541 (memory-aid: o-i-shi-i). Open F-W (closed Th) 11:00 am to 2:00, 5:00 to 9:00 pm. This busy, family-run local favorite displays the Ashikaga Fine-Dining Club (Umaimono-kai) seal of approval and serves up food that well deserves it. The chicken katsu is all breast meat, no skin, no fat. Their fried oysters are great, too. Set-menu dinners run from ¥950-1900.
Tori-tsune, Midori-cho 1-3336 (on the street leading to Midori-bashi near Ashikaga Park and the western end of old Ashikaga), tel. 0284-21-2202. Open Th-Tu (closed W) 11:30 am to 2:00 pm, 5:00 to 8:30 pm. This local favorite for 70 years offers a range of specialties, from yakitori sticks at ¥500 to a full unagi (eel) dinner at ¥2700.
Uoe, Igusa-cho (on the back street running parallel to main street, leading from the southwest corner of Bannaji to the lower entrance to Orihime Shrine), tel. 0284-22-2200. Open M-Sa (closed Su) 11:30 to 2:30 pm, 5:30 to 9:30 pm. Hosted by a friendly sushi chef who trained in San Francisco and Maui and understands a lot more English than he speaks, this longtime seafood restaurant in fresh new digs features fine fresh fish and regional sake, all presented creatively and deliciously. Lunch specials from ¥800; set-menu dinners from ¥1200; glasses of regional sake range from ¥450 to ¥950.
Yanagi-ya, Yuraku-cho 4-3 (on the right in the first block of Route 293 after it crosses main street running north through the heart of town), tel. 0284-41-2724. Open M-Sa (closed Su) 5:30 to 9:30 pm. This is a combination fresh seafood restaurant, izakaya, and sports bar, especially for fans of the Hanshin Tigers (and sumo). All the sake glasses, even those for Tiger sake, have the names of sumo wrestlers on them. The dishes are well presented and tasty, but there is no English or picture menu. Just ask for the day's specials (o-susume) or point to the more reasonably priced items on the wall menu. Snacks range from ¥500 to ¥1200; glasses of Tiger or local sake are ¥500.

Drink

Café de Furukawa, Shohei-cho 2360 (on a flagstone-paved side street linking two similar streets leading into the top tourist attractions, Ashikaga Gakko and Bannaji Temple), tel. 0284-42-1151. Open Th-Tu (closed W and half-day Tu) 6:30 am to noon, 2:30 pm to 5:30 pm. Founded in 1975 and run by a middle-aged couple who roast their own beans and make their own blends, Furukawa caters to those who want to savor their coffee while reading, listening to classical music, or conversing softly in an elegant, library-like atmosphere. No smoking, cell-phones, laptops, or cameras. A cup of coffee costs about ¥600.
Cafe Mocha, Ise-cho 3-chome, 9-9 (at the far-end, lefthand corner of the third block of Grand Avenue, which runs north from JR Ashikaga station). Open F-W (closed Th) 10:00 am to 10:00 pm. Founded in 1974 and run by a father and his two sons who roast their own beans and make their own blends ranging from soft to bitter, Mocha is family-friendly, conversation-friendly, and smoker-friendly. The background music is most likely to be jazz. A cup of coffee costs about ¥450.
Le Vent Vert, Tori 3-chome (on the ground floor of the former Ashikaga Bank building that is now a city museum). Founded in 1995 but reopened in the new city museum in 2006. A cup of coffee costs about ¥500.
Yakitori-kun, Tori 2-chome, Nakabashi-dori (in the middle of the first block north of the Watarase River bridge called Nakabashi; the Tobu Ashikagashi station complex lies at the opposite end of the bridge). Open daily 6:00 to 10:00 pm. A well-known hangout for neighborhood regulars throughout the week, and for English teachers and other foreigners on weekends and on Wednesdays when most other small eateries and drinking spots take their regular day off. In warmer weather, tables appear on the sidewalk in front of the small stand.

Sleep

New Miyako Hotel Honkan, Minami-cho 4254-1 (right at Tobu Ashikagashi station on the south bank of the Watarase River; or walk 10-15 minutes from JR Ashikaga station across the river), tel. 0284-71-4967, [14]. Convenient location, nice view of river, mountains, and old Ashikaga from 9th floor bar/restaurant. Western-style single ¥7,875, twin ¥15,750; Japanese-style double ¥15,750, triple ¥19,950.
Wakasa Business Hotel, Igusa-cho (right across the street from the main entrance to Bannaji Temple, 10 minutes walk from JR Ashikaga station). Brand new. Perfect location. Internet access in lobby. Single ¥4350, breakfast included.