Basel

Basel [1] is a city in Switzerland.

While it is not a typical tourist destination, it has a beautiful medieval style Old Town center and there are quite a few things to see and do if you have a few days to spend.

Understand

The town of Basel lies in the north-western corner of Switzerland. The town shares borders with France and Germany and is the heart of this tri-national region. Besides its own attractions it can serve as a good entry point to the Alsace, Black Forest regions or the canton of Basel-Land.

The Rhine runs through the city in an right-angle curve and divides the town into two parts. Situated on the south and west bank is Grossbasel (Greater Basel) with the medieval old town at its center. Kleinbasel (Smaller Basel) is located on the north bank.

Basel means art. Visiting Basel is usually a holiday for your vocal cords since you will absorb the beautiful art in silence exhibited in the many first-rate museums. Once a year it also hosts Art Basel which is the world's premier fair for modern classics and contemporary art.

Basel has one of the most amazing carnivals you're likely to see, called "Fasnacht". If you're there during the "three loveliest days" of the year, prepare to be amazed, and don't expect to be able to sleep. (more information below).

Even if you think your German is pretty good, and even though Basel is only just over the German border, remember this is Switzerland and the locals speak the incomparable and lively Baselduutsch.

The tourist information office is located in Barfusserplatz, directly across the street from McDonald's. There is also a tourist office at the Basel SBB station.

Get in

By plane

The Euroairport Basel-Mulhouse-Freiburg is the only bi-national airport in the world. Built on French soil about 4 km from Basel it is connected with the city through a toll-free road. Several major airlines, like Swiss, Air France or Lufthansa, serve the EuroAirport. Besides the national carriers, easyJet is building up a larger base in Basel. Current destinations are airports in the surroundings of Berlin, Liverpool, London, Alicante, Barcelona, Nice, Palma de Mallorca, and Rome. Another low-cost carrier is Air Berlin which flies to many holiday destinations, e.g. some Greek islands and the Canary Islands.

Be careful to exit through the Swiss passport control, or you will unwittingly find yourself in France. In the arrival hall you can choose to go through the Swiss customs and take the toll-free road to Basel or to go the French customs. Some flights to the EuroAiport are described with Basel (BSL, Switzerland) as destination while flights from France usually write Mulhouse (MLH, France) as their destination, although it is the same airport. To confuse you completely it even has a third airport code EAP, which is the less used international code. If you are searching for flights to Basel search for both destinations.

From the airport, visitors can rent a car (not recommended) or take the #50 bus (right outside the arrivals area) which ends at the Basel SBB train station. You must purchase a two-zone ticket at the bus stop for 3.80 CHF or the equivalent amount in Euros (only coins accepted). (Note that trips on the bus to the center of town are a "two zone" trip).

By train

Basel has two main train stations. The Basel SBB station is south of the town center and the Basel Badischer Bahnhof (abbrev Basel Bad Bf) is to the north. The Basel SBB station serves the Swiss SBB rail and French SNCF rail, with German DB trains connecting to the Basel Bad Bahnhof. The Bad Bahnhof serves the German DB rail. If you are arriving from France or Germany, you will pass through customs before entering Switzerland (which is not part of the EU).

International train connections include

• An ICE high speed train link from Germany (Frankfurt, Berlin)
• fast trains from Paris, Strasbourg, Amsterdam, Luxembourg, Brussels
• Night trains from Amsterdam, Brussels, Paris, Berlin and other cities in France and Germany

By car

Get around

By foot

This is the standard mode of travel for many within the city. Old Basel isn't very large and there are many narrow and winding side streets with incredible slopes. The shopping streets in the old city are closed to car traffic. Tourists will walk a lot - and be pleased and impressed at every turn. But the walking can be hard because of the often-found cobblestone pavement and the slopes. Some sidewalks even have steps. Walking around Basel can be a real cardiovascular workout for most if you wander off the main streets - but it's the ONLY way to really experience the city.

WARNING: Trams have the right of way over pedestrians - all the time. Keep an eye out for trams as you cross a street. A stopped tram can accelerate very quickly. And, always look the OTHER WAY for a tram if you're crossing behind one that just passed you. Your view of an oncoming tram may be blocked by the tram that just passed you.

By train

Basel has an extensive tram (and bus) network (map). Trams in Basel are the greatest amenity you can imagine. They are absolutely prompt - as is all public transit - inexpensive, clean and very convenient. Each stop has maps of the system for the trams that stop there as well as a listing of arrival times at that stop. Free tram transfers are allowed in the city, as long as you go in one direction.

Every tram stop has a green ticket vending machine. You will need Swiss currency (coins only), except for a few places that accept Euros. Inside the city limits, all destinations farther than 4 stops away are zone 1. As long as you are traveling away from your stop, you can ride on the one ticket. Don't buy first class, because trams do not have first class cars. Round trip tickets are fine, but watch out for any conditions, like same day return. Multi trip tickets or multi-day tickets are also available. If you're several people or plan on spending more than a couple of days in Basel, it is worth considering buying a 12-trip 1 zone ticket, available at every kiosk. It's not cheaper but more convenient because it saves you having to fiddle around with change. Do NOT buy a half-price ticket. That is reserved for any resident who purchased the appropriate annual discount card.

Doors on the tram are controlled by large push buttons on the door (outside) and above the door or on the grab rail near the door (inside). Once the tram stops, push the button and the door will open for you. The doors automatically close before the tram starts moving. HOLD ON! The trams have great acceleration and braking to make the trip as quick as possible. Each upcoming stop is announced by a recorded voice (in Standard German) along with the numbers of connecting trams at that stop.

Tram travel is on the honor system. Nobody collects your ticket. Periodically, a number (4-8) of "tram police" (undercover agents) board a tram and halt it short of a regular stop. They quickly examine everyone's ticket. If you don't have one, expect a large fine to be levied - in the neighborhood of 100 Francs. Even in this exercise, there is efficiency. Typical halts last less than 3 minutes - the precision of the schedules can't be messed up!

Many better hotels in Basel offer each registered guest a free tram travel card on check in. This is a great benefit, as it can be worth the price of a lunch every day you stay. Your only challenge is getting to the hotel as you arrive on the first day.

By bus

Buses serve the outer-lying areas of Basel, as trams operate mainly in the city center. The fare is the same as the trams, and transfers are free. There are also special buses that connect to nearby towns in France and Germany.

By cycle

Basel is a very bike-friendly city, with many well-marked bike lanes all through the city, and even traffic signals and left-hand turn lanes for bikes. While drivers are generally aware of bikers, be sure to use hand signals and ride defensively. Besides local commuter bike lanes, there are specific bike trails that connect to other parts of Switzerland (via the Veloland Schweiz network); these are indicated by signs at some intersections. Helmets are not required, but lights and bells are. The Swiss are quite keen cyclists, so don't be surprised when an old lady goes flying past you on her bike while going uphill.

Bikes can be rented from the underground bike park at Centralbahnplatz, under the Basel SBB station.

By boat

• (Swimming down the river Rhine, a favorite pastime for the locals in summer) See the Be Safe comments below!
• Basel also has several small boats which carry you across the Rhine for a small fee, for example from below the Munster. A ride in one of the old wooden ferries is definitely worth the 1.20 CHF!

By car

Driving in Basel is not recommended for visitors, as the roads are very confusing and are shared with trams (note, cars must yield to trams). Parking in the old city is also expensive and scarce.

See

Most of the "old town" attractions in Basel are in a walkable area between the Basel Zoo (just south of the Basel SBB train station) and the Rhine. Since most stores are closed on Sundays, it is a good day to plan to see one of the many museums, which are usually open. Basel has over 20 museums, and many of these have a free opening hour at the end of the day.

• Marktplatz (Market square). The central square in Basel is overlooked by the magnificent Rathaus (the historic "city hall" of Basel). Fresh fruits and vegetables, breads and pastries, flowers are available each working day. Considerably more vendors on Saturday morning.

• The Gates to the Walled City In early years, Basel was a walled city with fortifications. A number of the gates can still be seen around the old city. Each is worth visiting as a reminder of this great city's past.

• Muenster. Walk up to the Muensterplatz and Basel's cathedral. Cobbled streets, medieval buildings. For a few CHF, you can climb to the top of one of the towers and see spectacular views over the river. However, you must be accompanied in order to be allowed entrance (jumping risk). Views from the plaza surrounding the Munster and overlooking the Rhine are some of the best views of the city and the river.

• Kunstmuseum Basel [2], St. Alban-Graben 16, city center, +41 61 206 62 62. Basel's world-class art museum houses an impressive permanent collection of 19th and 20th century works (including a whole room filled with masterpieces by Picasso), as well as an extensive collection of medieval and renaissance paintings from European artists (Hans Baldung Grien, Hans Holbein, among others). Under the same umbrella, but in a separate building, at St. Alban-Rheinweg 60 (10 minute walk from the main facility) is the Museum fuer Gegenwartskunst [3], which focuses - as the German name says - on contemporary art. Along with the Beyeler Foundation (see below), both collections are must-sees for art lovers. No photography.

• Beyeler Foundation [4] (Take #6 tram towards Riehen Grenze to Fondation Beyeler stop, about 20 min from town center) This gallery, located outside of Basel in the neighboring town of Riehen, was designed by Renzo Piano and houses a world-class collection and usually displays excellent temporary exhibitions. It is also notable for a permanent collection of works by color-field painter Mark Rothko. No photography indoors, photos allowed outdoors.

• Tinguely Museum [5], Paul Sacher-Anlage 1 (walk east, on the Kleinbasel side of the Rhine, or take #36 bus), +41 (0)61 681 93 20, Tu-Su 11AM-5PM. See some fantastic animated mechanical works at this museum dedicated to Swiss artist Jean Tinguely and other similar "kinetic" modern artists. Great for kids. The building was designed by well-known Swiss architect Mario Botta, whose other museum buildings include the San Francisco Museum of Modern Art. 10 CHF adults, free for children up to age 16. No photography. Tinguely was one of Basel's most beloved artists, and another one of his poetic machine sculptures, the Fasnachtsbrunnen (Carnival Fountain) can be seen on an open plaza in front of Restaurant Kunsthalle on Steinenberg (see Eat), next to a large metal sculpture by American artist Richard Serra.

• Schaulager [6], Ruchfeldstrasse 19, Münchenstein/Basel (10 minute tram ride from the city center with no. 10), +41 61 335 32 32. Designed by Basel's star architects Herzog & De Meuron, this extraordinary building houses the extensive back catalogue of the Emmanuel Hoffmann Foundation's eminent modern and contemporary art collection. The Foundation, which is also a large benefactor of the Kunstmuseum and the Museum fuer Gegenwartskunst (Museum for Contemporary Art) was created by heirs to the fortune of the pharmaceutical multinational Hoffmann-La Roche (see Work). Schaulager literally means display-warehouse - and the building is indeed a hybrid between a storage space (cum art history research center) and a museum, with changing temporary exhibitions.

• Basel Zoo [7] (second largest in Switzerland) with easy access by walking or tram from the central SBB station. For a zoo located in the center of a city it is big with great variety. Have lunch watching the elephants and take some time to see the monkeys solving problems for food in the Monkey House.

• Rhine river in warm weather, be sure to spend some time in the afternoon enjoying the sun by the Rhine, or take a dip in it if it's really hot, as many locals do (but see Stay Safe). Walk over the bridges: they offer excellent vantage points to see river - and river bank - life. Even better - cross the Rhine by Faehri[8], one of the four ferry boats which, hanging at a steel rope, are silently drawn by the current between the two banks of the river. One river crossing costs CHF 1.20 for adults and 0.60 for children.

• The world-class construction projects at Voltaplatz. The first is the building of a tunnel under the city streets for traffic entering and leaving France. This traffic has been using surface routes to the bridge over the Rhine for decades. The project is comparable to the "Big Dig" in Boston, but further complicated by the unearthing of ancient ruins in the excavation. Not be be ignored is the nearby Novartis campus reconstruction project. This immense building project will totally renovate the look of the campus and integrate with the tunnel project to create a revitalized and attractive neighborhood and serene parkland along the Rhine River. The sheer number and size of the construction cranes in this area is awesome!

Do

Events and Festivals

Basel Fasnacht

This is Basel's version of Carnival [9], and a premier event during the year, lasting for three straight days, beginning on the Monday following Ash Wednesday. Don't confuse it with the more raucous festivals in traditionally Catholic areas, such as the German Rhineland (Karneval) or Munich (Fasching)or Carnival in Rio or Mardi Gras in New Orleans. It's actually kind of somber, although with a distinct poetry, which you may learn to like. Many locals take it dead-serious, often preparing their costumes and practicing their skills on the traditional musical instruments (military drums and piccolo flutes) throughout most of the year. If you are not a Basler, avoid dressing up silly or putting on make-up, as this is neither customary nor appreciated by locals - who kind of prefer to stay among themselves for what many consider "the three loveliest days" of the year. But that's no reason to be discouraged (thousands of tourists aren't anyway), just have the right approach:

Fasnacht starts Monday morning with an eerie procession called Morgestraich (MOR-GUE-SHTRICH): At precisely 4:00 AM, street lights are turned off, and hundreds of traditional bands (cliquen), dressed up in elaborate costumes and masks, parade through the densely packed streets of the Old Town. Arrive well in advance - and on foot - or you will not get through to the city center. It's not recommended for the claustrophobic, although it is peaceful, despite the masses. Absolutely DON'T use flash photography! It ruins the atmosphere, marks you as a tourist and creates hundreds of instant enemies. Morgestraich lasts for about 2-3 hours, during which restaurants are open - if mobbed - and you can warm up with a traditional zybelewaie (a kind of quiche) and a mählsuppe (a soup made of sauteed flour). It's an acquired taste, so perhaps wash it down with a glass of white whine or beer. Almost all of the restaurants mentioned in the Eat section are open during Morgestraich - but perhaps don't choose McD. After Morgestraich, everyone goes home to get some hours of sleep - or sometimes to work, if you are a Basler.

There are similar parades, the cortege, by the cliquen on Monday and Wednesday afternoon, along a predetermined route through most of the inner city. Note again the elaborate costumes and masks, and the large hand-painted lanterns, the pride of each clique, often designed by a local artist. Each clique chooses a sujet (SU-SHE), a motto that typically pokes fun at some (mainly local) political event of the past year and which is reflected in the costumes and lanterns. You don't need to understand the sujet to appreciate the beauty of it. The lanterns are also on display on Tuesday nights, at Munsterplatz. In the evenings, the cortege route is all but abandoned, and large and small cliquen roam through the smaller alleys of the medieval Old Town (gaessle). It is common for spectators who like the sound of one of the cliquen to follow it around on foot for a while. As the pace of the cliquen is a slow trot, and the music CAN be lovely, this may even be kind of romantic, particularly if you are holding hands with a date. But note that Fasnacht is nothing like Mardi Gras, so don't expect ladies baring their breasts. Overt sexuality is a no no, and aggressive attempts at picking up are frowned upon, as is binge-drinking. Remember: it's an almost somber if poetic affair. Try to blend in with locals, perhaps express some friendly curiosity about a costume or a sujet when talking to someone, and you are likely to have a much better time.

Tuesday is the day of the children, and of the guggemusig (GOOCKE-MOOSIC), noisy brass bands that intentionally play off key. On Tusday night at 10:00 PM, dozens of these bands play on two stages, at Claraplatz and Barfusserplatz. This is the one day where things get a little merrier, particularly in the more proletarian neighborhoods of Kleinbasel, where many of the guggemusige have their home.

• Chienbäse [10]. Combine Fasnacht with the amazing fire spectacle of the Chienbäse (KHEAN-BA-SE) parade in nearby town of Liestal, capital of the neighboring canton Basel-Landschaft (15 minutes by train from SBB Station), which starts at 7:15 PM on the Sunday evening preceding Morgestraich. Locals clad in (kind of) fireproof garb parade through the narrow and spectator-lined streets of the town, carrying large burning wooden brooms (bäse) above their heads. Other groups are drawing iron carts with huge bonfires - they even go through some of the old town gates, as the flames lick the structure above. There are a number of inconclusive interpretations of this pagan-seeming custom, but you don't necessarily need to understand any of them to appreciate the eerie and even mildly threatening beauty of the parade.

• Fasnachtsbummel. The three sunday afternoons following Fasnacht, the cliquen tour the countryside and small towns around Basel and return to Basel for a final large evening parade - the bummel (BOOM-MEL, engl. stroll). No costumes, just music.

Other Events

• "BaselWorld" International Watch and Jewelry fair. [11]. Late March-Early April. The world's biggest watch and jewelry trade show. The city's population more than doubles during this convention. The watch displays are particularly elaborate, with the exhibition space set up like an indoor version of 5th Avenue.

• ArtBasel [12] Mid-June. Co-founded by gallery owner Ernst Beyeler (see Beyeler Foundation) in the late 1960s, this is the world's premier fair for modern and contemporary art. Another event that all but doubles the population of the city. The five day fair attracts major galleries and wealthy art collectors from around the world. ArtBasel showcases works by virtually all important artists from the late 19th century on, up to red hot trendsetters. It's well worth a trip to Basel just for this event if you are interested in seeing and - if you can afford it - buying art. Because of its immense success, ArtBasel has branched out to a second fair, held in December, in Miami, FL.

• Basel Herbstmesse (autumn fair) Two weeks beginning on the last Saturday of October every year. Rides, booths, shooting alleys and lots of food in several locations all over the city. Recommended: the cosy market at Petersplatz, near the main University building, where you can take a leisurly stroll and buy almost anything from china, Indian spices and tea, hand-drawn candles, knitted sweaters and leather goods to household cleaning items.

Learn

• University of Basel (Universität Basel) [13]. Switzerland's oldest university, founded in 1459. Located in central Basel.

Work

Basel is a center of the pharmaceutical industry. Mergers of Basel companies in the past two decades have produced the giant Novartis group, still with HQ in Basel. The smaller, but still huge, Hoffman-La Roche, provides competition. There are also other large chemical and life sciences companies such as CIBA Specialty Chemical, Syngenta and Lonza.

Basel is also emerging as a software cluster, particularly in the field of enterprise web software, with companies such as Day (Communique CMS), Obtree (now owned by OpenText), Things Prime (Generic Applications), and Obinary (Magnolia CMS), all having their HQs in Basel.

Basel is also home of the Bank for International Settlements (www.bis.org).

Buy

• Buy some Basler "Leckerli", the local biscuit specialty. Addictive, even if you buy the non-brand ones from Migros.

Basel's "shopping mile" goes from Clarastrasse (Claraplatz) to Marktplatz and up Freiestrasse and Gerbergasse to Heuwaage and Bankverein. Most of the shopping is in specialty stores and luxury boutiques, with a few department stores. Like other large Swiss cities, Basel has many jewelers, horologers (watches), and chocolatiers. Tourists will enjoy wandering the small streets and window shopping in the large variety of specialty shops. Retailers are generally cheery and very competent, polite and helpful.

Souvenirs in Basel Old Town tend to be expensive and high-end. Souvenir shops in Basel are located near the tram stop at Schifflande and another near the University "up the hill" from Marktplatz. Also at the train station "SBB"; maybe at the tram museum, too.

Prices of name brands are generally uniform across the city - and across the country. Discounting has only recently made inroads in Basel. Expect to pay the same price anywhere for a Swiss Army knife or a watch.

Most stores close promptly at 6:30PM Mo-Fr, except for Thursday when many stores are open until 8 or 9PM. Stores close by 5PM on Saturday and nothing is open on Sunday. Exceptions are the stores around the train station, the Coop Pronto at Barfüsserplatz and a number of small family businesses in residential areas. Tax is included in prices, and there is generally no haggling. Some luxury stores offer tax-free shopping for tourists.

• Bucherer, Freiestrasse. High-end jewelry and watches, especially Rolex.
• Läckerli Huus, Gerbergasse. Traditional and non-traditional versions of the famous Basler Leckerli.
• Sprüngli, (Basel SBB station, upstairs). Satellite location of the famous Zürich chocolatier. Try the dark chocolate.
• Jäggi Bücher. The biggest bookstore in town (location by the central post office) also carries a small selection of English books (including computer books) and stationery.
• Bergli Books, Basel's only English-only bookstore.
• Bider and Tanner, (Aeschenplatz). Large bookstore with a good English book section and an excellent travel book section. The place to go to get local topo maps and Swiss bike maps.
• Globus (Marktplatz) High-end department store, with two floors of gourmet grocery store (take the lift downstairs).

Eat

Basel has a thriving café culture, and the streets of the old town are lined with outdoor seating in the summer. For "sit down" restaurants, tipping a percentage of your bill is not the norm as it is in the US. Restaurants build into food prices an allowance for proper salaries for their servers. Howecer, while tipping is optional, it is a sign of appreciation of good service. If you have a drink or a snack, leaving "pocket change" is acceptable. For example, if your bill comes to 6.65 francs, leave .35 francs as a tip. If you have an inespensive meal (up to 30 francs), a good waiter or waitress will appreciate a tip in the neighborhood of 1-3 francs. In more expensive restaurants (meals for over 75 francs), it is fairly common to leave a tip of 8-10% - if you were happy with the service.

Budget

Food in Switzerland is generally more expensive than other countries in Europe, and those on a budget should consider preparing their own food from the grocery store (closed in the evenings), or taking a trip up to nearby France or Germany.

• Mensa Universität Basel, at Bernoullistrasse 14. One of the students cafeterias. Serves an inexpensive lunch menu not only to students from Monday to Friday. It is by no means 'gourmet' food, though.
• Marktplatz and Barfüsserplatz. Usually you can find some street vendors in these areas selling pretzels, sandwiches, pizzas, and sometimes crêpes, for around 3-5 CHF each. On many days in Marktplatz you can buy a variety of tasty sausages (Wurst) hot off the grill from the yellow Eiche cart for less than 6 CHF each. These are served with a piece of bread and a condiment, and there are usually stands nearby where you can eat.
• Mister Wong. Good Asian food, as cheap as 7-8 CHF to around 13 CHF for a meal, situated at the Barfusserplatz.
• McDonald's. Central Basel has several locations, and the ones in Claraplatz and Barfusserplatz are open until early in the morning. Be prepared for sticker shock, though, as a combo meal costs well over 10 CHF. Americans may be amused by the walk-up window in Claraplatz.
• Some of the large department stores (Coop City, Pfauen, and Manor) have self-service cafeterias on the top floor. While they are not particularly cheap, they serve good food that is a reasonably priced alternative to a full-service restaurant. Note that salad bars usually sell food by plate, not by weight.
• If you are looking for a snack, the Coop Pronto convenience store usually has fresh baked breads and pastries, and sometimes has heartier pastries filled with meat and some packaged sandwiches. Drinks are much cheaper at grocery stores than at cafés or restaurants.
• Many of the bakeries and confiseries in town sell petite sandwiches that you can take away, and usually you can get some kind of small snack at any street café.
• Hirscheneck, Lindenberg 23. [14] Traditional left-wing / punk-run restaurant. You get a relatively cheap square meal. Always serves vegetarian and vegan food too. Breakfast on Sundays until 16.00.

Mid-range

The restaurants in the historical part of Basel are generally of good quality.

• Alter Zoll, Elsässerstrasse 127 [15], serves excellent, homemade food for moderate prices (lunch CHF 17.50, dinner CHF 20 - 30). Calm atmosphere to relax, no bells and whistles. Not exactly in the city-center though.
• Bodega zum Strauss, Barfüsserplatz 16, +41 61 261 22 72. Italian and Spanish food in a noisy but friendly atmosphere on the ground floor. Artsy, and favored by creative types from the local advertising scene, and by certain Basel 'originals' (a moniker for which some of the waiters qualify as well). Slightly more elegant (reservation recommended) on the upper floor.
• Zum Goldenen Fass, Hammerstrasse 108, in Kleinbasel. +41 61 693 3400. One of Basel's most venerable "alternative" restaurants. Originally a spin off of the more anarchist-minded Hirscheneck (see Budget), this is a somewhat more upmarket restaurant but that still retains a certain laid back flair. Food is excellent, and for a an after dinner drink you can head to the Fassbar next door and fraternize with local hipsters over a few rounds of pinball.
• Restaurant Erlkoenig, Erlenstrasse 21, +41 61 683 33 22. Organic food, heavy on old-fashioned meat dishes, at reasonable prices in a trendy setting. Even further in Kleinbasel, near the German railway station (Badischer Bahnhof) and the Messe Basel (Basel Fair), hidden away in a former industrial area - the Areal [16]., which also features other watering holes and a night club to dance away the calories.

Splurge

• Restaurant Kunsthalle, Steinenberg 7, +41 61 272 42 33, [17]. A Basel classic, divided in a casual beer hall type of place - the "brown" or schluuch (SHLOOKH = tube) section, serving more rustic fare (but don't expect it to be cheap), and a a more elegant dining hall - the "white" section - for which a reservation is necessary. Features Basel's finest beergarden in the summertime, which doubles up during the winter as a romantic ice-rink. At the far end of the garden is the Campari Bar, an Italian style bar, where Basel's cool and wannabe-cool like to hang out.
• Café Spitz, Rheingasse 2 (Just across the middle bridge from the old city, directly overlooking the Rhine), +41 61 685 11 11, [18]. Not simply a café - excellent seafood, with a nice terrace overlooking the Rhine. In the summer, there is a special menu with a variety of grilled fish to choose from. The outdoor seating area directly overlooking the Rhine has a reduced (and less expensive) menu.
• Chez Donati, +41 61 322 09 19, St. Johannsvorstadt 48, at Johanniter Bridge. Reservation necessary. Arguably one of Basel's classiest and most beautiful restaurants, with modern art adorning the walls - some of it by former patrons (it used to be Andy Warhol's favorite hangout when he came to visit ArtBasel). If you are lucky you might even get a table with view over the Rhine. Heavy but exquisite northern Italian fare, particularly an outstanding Osso Bucco (braised veal knuckles).
• Restaurant Stucki Bruderholz, Bruderholzallee 42, +41 61 361 82 22, [19]. Reservation necessary. Among the finest restaurants in Basel - and indeed Switzerland - is this gem situated in an old manor serving classic French cuisine. For lovers of fine food, it is well worth venturing just outside the city center to dine here (10 minute taxi ride). The restaurant has been awarded 18 Gault-Millau points and one Michelin star. It is also listed in the popular book 1000 Places To See Before You Die - say no more.

Drink

• BarRouge (Messeplatz, express elevator to top) [20]. A cool modern-style bar located on the top (31st) floor of the Messeturm. Panoramic views of the city, even from the stalls in the bathroom!

• Brauner Mutz, Beer hall situated at the Barfüsserplatz. A good place to get in contact with locals and have a beer or two. Never mind sitting at a table that still has a stool that's not taken.

• Fischerstube, Rheingasse. The oldest brewpub in Switzerland, with micro-brewery on plain view in the back of the restaurant. Nice selection of brews including an excellent wheat beer. Also good fish cuisine.

• Rio Bar, Barfüsserplatz 12, +41 61 261 34 72. Starting point for many a late night and inevitable station in the upringing of every self-respecting local 'bohemien', real or imagined. Have a seat in a booth for four to six if you have or like company, or at the bar. Serves only bar fare - to lay a foundation for your drinks: the main pursuit in this Basel classic.

• Fassbar, see under Eat Mid-Range.

• Restaurant Kunsthalle, strictly the brown schluuch section. See under Eat Splurge.

• Campari Bar, adjacent to Kunsthalle.

• Unternehmen Mitte, Gerbergasse (near the central post office) [21]. Interesting hangout and modern-style bar with lots of seating indoors and outdoors. On some evenings, it becomes a venue where you can enjoy classical musicians (Wed evenings) and watch Tango dancing (Thu). Great café lattes and cappucinos. Good place to hang out during the day, too. Non-smoking room (Non-fumare).

• Pickwicks, Steinenvorstadt. Brit/Irish pub. Friendly atmosphere spills out onto the pavement.

• Klingenthal, Brandgasse (in the heart of the small red light district). One of the rare places that do warm plates after midnight and therefore a place for professional ladies to have their break. (They are heaving a break, so don't intend to do business with them in there.) Quite a rough atmosphere sometimes but definitely not a dangerous place to go.

• Roter Kater, (in the red light district). Small bar with a hotel that rents rooms on a "short timeline basis". Although definitely used as a "contact room" still a nice little dodgy bar with still affordable prices after midnight. Best of all: You don't get chatted up.

Sleep

If you plan on staying in Basel during Fasnacht [22], BaselWorld [23], or ArtBasel [24] be sure to book your room well in advance. Most places are booked solid during these times.

Budget

• The youth hostel is located in the St. Alban quarter, one of the most picturesque quarters in town, close to the riverbank of the Rhine. Single and double rooms or dorms. Prices range from 30 CHF for dorm beds to 80 CHF for single rooms. Address: St. Alban-Kirchrain 10, 4052 Basel, phone +41 61 272 05 72, fax +41 61 272 08 33 www.youthhostel.ch/basel/, basel@youthhostel.ch

• A second youth hostel (Basel-City) has opened on 22th of March 2005. It is just 3 minutes away from the main station and has only single and double rooms. Address: Pfeffingerstasse 8, CH-4053 Basel, phone + 41 61 365 99 60, fax: +41 61 365 99 61, http://www.youthhostel.ch/basel.city, basel.city@youthhostel.ch

• Basel back pack, Dornacherstr. 192, 4053 Basel, phone +41 61 333 00 37 www.baselbackpack.ch, info@baselbackpack.ch. The first and only backpackers is located in the lively Gundeldinger Feld quarter, where you find lots of night life, dining and shopping possibilities. Single and double rooms or dorms. 30 CHF for dorm beds to 80 CHF for single rooms.

Mid-range

• Basel Schweizerhof located on Centralbahnplatz [25]. Handy access to the train station and tram links.

Splurge

• Teufelhof [26], Leonhardsgraben 49, at the border of the old town, +41 61 261 10 10. This is one of Basel's most original hotels, in a (thoroughly renovated) medieval mansion. Each of the spacious hotel rooms was designed by an artist, giving them a very original look and atmosphere (check out the website). Also features a fairly good restaurant of the same name. If you step out of the building, you find yourself in the middle of a maze of small alley ways. It's a popular spot to watch the Morgestraich and evening processions of the Basler Fasnacht (see Festivals). But reserve about a year in advance if you plan on staying here for that event (and bring earplugs if you intend to sleep at all during the three loveliest days).
• Les Trois Rois or Drei Koenige (Three Kings), [27], Blumenrain 8, on the bank of the Rhine near Mittlere Bruecke, +41 61 260 50 50. Reopened in March 2006 after extensive renovation of the existing mid-1800s structure. A member of the Leading Hotels of the World, this is one of the oldest and finest hotels in Switzerland. Legend has it that the hotel owes its name to the three kings who made peace in Basel in 1026. Very expensive, but views of the Rhine from some rooms - and all that tradition!!
• SAS Radisson, [28], Steinentorstr. 25, at Heuwaage, +41 61 227 27 27. Recently renovated, fully air conditioned, great lobby bar and fair restaurants: Steinenpick and Kaffi-Muehli. Expect to pay CHF 150-250 range for a neat and clean room. Most rooms are of modest size unless you go high-end deluxe business class. High speed internet access in some better rooms and (wireless) in the lobby (both at extra cost). Window views are generally of a small inner courtyard built on the roof of the first floor (pretty dismal). Otherwise a good hotel with pleasant and helpful staff.
• Basel Hilton, [29], Aeschengraben 31, +41 61 275 66 00. Typical anonymous business hotel, lacking any Swiss authenticity, but located only one block from the main train station (Bahnhof SBB). It's surrounded on two sides by four lane pass through streets, and sits right next to the Bank for International Settlements building (which in turn has the appealing shape of a nuclear power plant's cooling tower). However, through an underpass you can walk not only to the train station but also to a small park across the street and from there within 5 minutes to the city center.

Contact

• The big bookstore Thalia in the center of town has a free, public WiFi hotspot and also some Internet terminals for a small hourly fee ("Surfpoint").
• There is free wifi in Unternehmen Mitte (see above)
• There is an internet café in the Steinen.
• The main branch of the public library (GGG), located in Schmiedenhof between Barfüsserplatz and Marktplatz, offers internet terminals for a small fee.
• There are a number of free internet terminals in the university library.

Stay safe

• Watch out for the trams. Trams have right of way over pedestrians!
• Be careful when swimming in the Rhine! There are many ships! The Rhine is not a lazy river. It has many bridges, heavy flow and much commercial traffic. Don't go swimming if you are a weak swimmer, ask locals for good and save entry / exit points. Never try to swim across from one side to the other. Wear foot-protection at all times.

Cope

Language

Basel is a cosmopolitan city because of its university and its industry, and proximity to the borders of France and Germany. Most people speak some French and German (for many one of these languages is their first language) and probably 50% of the population can speak English comfortably enough to deal with typical interactions, and will gladly work with you to understand you (if you happen to be strictly English-speaking). The locals speak Baseldytsch, which is a local Swiss-German dialect and is very similar to Alsatian. To the untrained ear, it sounds similar to German with a smattering of French.

Attitude

Every Swiss takes great pride in his/her work. Every position is a profession demanding excellence. The bartender, housekeeper, tram driver, retail clerk, street sweeper, waiter, etc. aims to be perfectly competent. This attitude is reflected in the everyday life you will experience in Basel and throughout Switzerland.

Don't mistake the Swiss penchant for privacy and calmness as indifference. They are earnest and interested, but generally reserved - except during Fasnacht (Carnival).

Swiss are scrupulously law abiding and honest. Few natives cross against a traffic light. A loose banknote on the sidewalk may stay there all day waiting for its rightful owner to realize that it's missing and come back for it. Real story: A Basel resident found a credit card on the street and took the time to visit a number of nearby office buildings and inquire about the possibility of the card owner working in that building. The rightful owner was found after a number of unsuccessful visits to other buildings.

Computer repair

Ingenodata Apple Center, Güterstrasse 133 (a few min walk, left from the south entrance of the Basel SBB station), 061 366 11 11. A large certified "Apple Center" offers free repair service for Apple products covered under an AppleCare warranty.

Get out

The following destinations are good day trips by train from Basel: Zürich, Bern, Lucerne, Schaffhausen - all in Switzerland, roughly 1 hour (except Schaffhausen: 2 hours) from the main station (Bahnhof SBB); Freiburg and the Black Forest - these are across the border in Germany (bring a passport), roughly 1 hour from the German station (Badischer Bahnhof) in Kleinbasel; Colmar, in the Alsace (passport!), leaving from the French (SNCF) station, at the far end to the right of Bahnhof SBB)

Lucerne. If you want lots of tee shirts and other relatively inexpensive trinkets, go to the Old Town in Lucerne - very much worth the trip because of the beautiful location at Lake Lucerne with a panoramic view of the Alps. Of course the souvenirs will be of Lucerne, not Basel.