Sapporo

Sapporo (札幌; [1]) is the capital and largest city of the northern island of Hokkaido, Japan.

Understand

One of Japan's newest and nicest cities, Sapporo's population has grown from 7 in 1857 to nearly two million today. Being a new city, especially by Japanese standards, means it has little in the way of traditional architecture and the like of cities such as Kyoto. But what it lacks in "Japanese-ness" it makes up for with its lovely open, tree-filled boulevards to enjoy in summer and excellent snow (and facilities to cope with said snow) in the long winter.

Get in

Sapporo is Hokkaido's main transport hub.

By plane

All international and interisland flights land at New Chitose Airport (CTS) to the south of the city. The route from Tokyo is the most heavily traveled in the world, with several dozen Jumbos flying daily on a variety of carriers and flights as low as ¥10000 one way if you book in advance. From the airport, JR trains run every 15 minutes directly to Sapporo station (36 mins, ¥1040).

A few flights within Hokkaido also land at the older Okadama Airport (OKD) to the north of the city.

By train

JR trains run from Honshu to Hokkaido via the Seikan Tunnel, the longest tunnel in the world.

The fastest way to get to Sapporo from Tokyo is 10 hours in duration, taking three trains (one Shinkansen and two Limited Express trains, connecting in Hachinohe and Hakodate). The one way fare is ¥22,470 so this option may only be of value to Japan Rail Pass holders.

Perhaps the most popular way to reach Sapporo by train, however, are on the various overnight sleeper services. These are popular, so book in advance.

Japan's most prominent - and most expensive - overnight train is the Cassiopeia (カシオペア) which runs a few times a week between Ueno Station in Tokyo and Sapporo. The one-way trip takes about 16 1/2 hours. The less expensive and more frequent Hokutosei (北斗星) makes two daily runs from Ueno.

The Twilight Express (トワイライトエクスプレス), which makes a few runs a week from Osaka and Kyoto, is the longest overnight train service in Japan, making the journey to Sapporo in about 21 hours.

The daily and less expensive Nihonkai (日本海) runs twice daily from Osaka and Kyoto to Aomori, from which two connecting express trains bring you to Sapporo by the following afternoon. The total journey time is about 20 1/2 hours.

Note that for these sleeper trains, the Japan Rail Pass will only cover the basic fare. Pass holders will be responsible for paying for the room, as well as any limited express and other surcharges. For example, a B2 room on the Hokutosei costs ¥12,600. Up to ¥6,000 in surcharges will also have to be paid, which includes a charge to travel between Morioka and Hachinohe over lines which are not owned by Japan Railways.

A free overnight option from Tokyo to Sapporo for Japan Rail Pass holders is to take the Shinkansen to Hachinohe and a Limited Express to Aomori, then take the Hamanasu (はまなす) express train to Sapporo. The one-way ride takes just over 13 hours, with arrival in Sapporo at around 6 AM the next morning. The return trip to Tokyo takes 12 hours, owing to a faster ride on the Shinaksen.

Trains also connect Sapporo to most major cities in Hokkaido, including Hakodate, Otaru and Asahikawa.

The JR Sapporo station is at North 2, West 1 on the subway Namboku line.

By bus

Express buses connect to most points in Hokkaido. The main terminal is next to the Bus Center-Mae station of the subway Tozai line.

Get around

Most unusually for a Japanese city, Sapporo is painfully logically organized thanks to its strict grid system. The main thoroughfare, the leafy Ō-Dōri (大通り、 lit. "Big Street"), runs east-west across the city and divides the city into North and South, while the Namboku subway line divides the city into West and East, running under the main street Eki-Mae-Dori (駅前道リ、lit. "In Front of the Train Station Road"). The address of every block in the center is thus of the type "North X West Y" (prominently signposted at all intersections), making navigation a snap. However, most businesses etc. will still provide maps to their location, building names or landmarks, because the address "North X West Y" or the like simply means that the place you are trying to find will be somewhere in the block, and blocks in the centre of the city can be quite large!

By subway

Sapporo has three subway lines, all converging at Odori station at the center of the grid. The Namboku Line ("North-South") runs north-south, the Tōzai Line ("East-West") runs along Odori west-east, and only the Tōhō Line breaks the mould by running in a C-shaped curve from northeast to southeast. Single fares cost ¥200 and up, with a choice between subway-only tickets or subway-transfer (bus and streetcar) tickets, or you can buy the oddly named With You stored value card (lowest denomination ¥1000). On weekends and public holidays, the Donichika-Kippu (ドニチカキップ, lit. "Saturday, Sunday, Holidays Ticket") allows you to travel all day, anywhere on the subway network for a bargain ¥500. On weekdays the "One-Day Card" allows the same, but costs ¥800. The "One-Day Card" isn't limited to weekends, but why pay ¥800 when a ¥500 card does the trick? That said, for ¥1000 you can buy a Bus & Subway transfer "One-Day Card" which allows travel on the entire suburban bus, subway and streetcar network, all day. For all of the above, Child tickets are usually about half of the adult fare.

By streetcar

A streetcar of relatively little utility to most visitors trundles around the southwestern side of Sapporo, connecting to the subway at Susukino. Its most important stops are probably the Chuo Library (Main Public Library in Sapporo) and the Mt. Moiwa Ropeway. It's most useful in winter, when walking the icy footpaths to get to the library or otherwise less-accessible south-western areas of the city becomes quite treacherous. Single-trip tickets are around ¥200.

See

• Clock Tower (時計台 Tokeidai), close to Odori station. This rather diminutive building has become a symbol of Sapporo, mostly by being the oldest building still standing. It was constructed in 1878 for the Sapporo Agricultural College (now the Hokkaido University) and would not look out of place in Smalltown USA. 200 yen for entry, the inside is a small retrospective of its history. However, visitor beware, this is a mecca for Japanese tourists coming to Sapporo (no trip to Sapporo would be complete without a photo in front of the Tokedai), but was actually recently rated as Japan's third "most disappointing" tourist attraction!

• Ishiya Chocolate Factory A 15-20 minute subway ride away from the main park, the chocolate factory has an incredibly corny, but fun, tour building up to a view of the actual chocolate making floor, and ending with a random toy museum. Also there are two restaurants, a souvenir store, and an hourly robot show with annoying music.

• Sapporo TV Tower, the eastern end of Odori, [2]. A tourist trap carbon copy of the Eiffel Tower with an observation deck at 90m (entry ¥700).

• Sapporo Beer Museum, North 7, East 9, tel. 01-1731-4368, [3]. Run by the Sapporo Brewing Company, offers free guided tours covering the history of beer in Japan and the process of brewing. At the end of the tour you can "taste" all the different beers for a small fee (200 yen for a mid sized glass, or a sample of three for 400). Finish off the tour with more brews at the Beer Garden next door (see Eat). Open 9 AM to 6:00 PM, get there on the Loop 88 Factory bus line from Odori Station.

Do

Sapporo is famous for its ski resorts. There are some ski resorts near downtown Sapporo, easily accessible by bus.

• Sapporo Snow Festival, [4]. Held on the first week of February, this is Sapporo's largest event. The festival is best known for the ice sculpture competition attracting artists from around the world, competing to create the largest and most elaborate artworks from ice and snow. Book accommodation early, as even a big city like Sapporo gets booked out during this major festival.

Buy

For those living in Japan who have an omiyage (souvenir) obligation to fill in your Japanese office when you return from your Hokkaido holiday, the best omiyage to buy in Sapporo is the ubiquitous Shiroi Koibito (白い恋人, "White Lovers"). It is a chocolate slice sandwiched in two wafers of sweet biscuit, individually wrapped and available boxed in a range of different quantities. The original flavour is white chocolate sandwiched in plain sweet biscuit, but there is also a chocolate-flavoured version. It's available in every souvenir store in the city (try the Sapporo JR area or Tanuki Koji Shopping Arcade when shopping for souvenirs), and also most souvenir stores around the island.

Being a wintery kind of place for a good part of each year, Sapporo also has many stores selling all manner of snow goods. At the beginning and end of each season, many good deals on the previous year's gear can be found, often at discounts of up to 60% off, sometimes more! Also, there are several sports recycle stores in the city and suburbs where good deals on barely-used gear can be found, thanks to the Japanese fondness for having new gear every season. Ask Tourist Information to help you locate sports recycle and snow-goods stores.

Eat

Sapporo is famous for hairy crab (毛蟹 kegani), an expensive treat available at any seafood restaurant, and miso ramen (味噌ラーメン), a more affordable local variation of the ubiquitous noodle dish with miso paste added to the stock. The ramen in particular will warm you up nicely on a chilly winter day. Sapporo soup curry (just what it sounds like) is also increasingly famous.

As elsewhere in Hokkaido, you can also enjoy dairy products (milk, cheese, butter, chocolate and ice cream), seafood (especially as sushi), fruits (honeydew melon, strawberries) and meat (sausages, ham, bacon and beef).

• Sapporo Beer Garden. At the same location as the Beer Museum is the Beer Garden, an incredibly popular Genghis Khan (mutton barbeque) restaurant. Even though the dining rooms span three large buildings, come early and expect to wait. The restaurant offers 100 minute all you can eat and all you can drink plans, as well as à la carte food and drink if you'd prefer.

Drink

The Susukino (すすきの) area to the south of the center is one of Japan's largest nightlife (and red-light) districts. It has a somewhat unsavory reputation due to heavy yakuza involvement in the business, but is generally safe for travellers not actively looking for trouble. Get there on the subway Namboku line, Susukino station.

The drink of choice when in Sapporo is obviously Sapporo beer.

Sleep

Budget

• Ino's Place, in Shiroishi (白石) (7 minutes from Ō-Dōri station on the Tōzai line), [5]. Describes itself as Backpackers Hostel and is a very friendly, open and clean place offering dorm room beds for ¥3400. Slightly more expensive private rooms are available as well, as are discounts for long-term stays. Several 24h showers and a Japanese-style bath, free to use kitchen, a comfy living area and reasonably priced internet access make this one a sure winner.

• Safro Spa & Capsule Hotel, South 6 West 5 (in Susukino), [6]. Formerly the Hokuo, this is a capsule hotel bolted on to an extensive spa complex, with separate floors for men and women. ¥4100 gets you entry into the spa and a capsule for the night, with an extra ¥500 slapped on top on weekends. You can come and go freely, but your bill must be settled before they will let you out.

• Auto Resort Takino in Sapporo's Minami-ku (南区 - South Ward). From April (~27th) until November (~3rd), there is a campground in Takino, which is ¥1000 for the site and ¥800 per person. Near the Art Park. Has all the facilities you would expect in a suburban campground, including a playground, restrooms, cooking area, water, public phones, vending machines, showers, store, laundromat. Ph. 011-594-2121. According to Outdoor Japan (www.outdoorjapan.com) "there are some beautiful waterfalls to hike around in Takino Suzuran Koen and the campsite is large and comfortable".

Mid-range

Splurge

• Sapporo Grand Hotel was first established in 1934 and is a historical monument in itself. Although some of the rooms are rather aged, it is a stylish hotel and is very conveniently located.

Contact

There are a quite few internet cafes in the city, ask at the International Plaza (in Sapporo JR or near the Clock Tower) for current information and directions.

• YahooBB Park, near Tokyu Hands and the North Streetcar Terminus. Probably the pick of the bunch, it has free, fast (50Mbps) broadband internet access, if you sign up. It has lots of terminals and a nice simple atmosphere. You'll need some kind of ID (Passport, "Gaijin Card" or Drivers Licence) to "join" and be given a member card.

• Tully's Coffee, in the Sapporo Station, Stellar Plaza 6F, has an excellent free WiFi hotspot and a great view.

Stay safe

Cope

Get out

• The hot springs and mossy canyons of Shikotsu-Toya National Park are within easy striking distance of Sapporo.